Heritage champion, exponent of women’s empowerment, philanthropist and founder of Dwarika’s Hotel, Ambica Shrestha, passed away after a brief illness on 18 July aged 92. Photo: Lisa Choegyal

It is no exaggeration to say that the vision and drive of Ambica Shrestha has changed the face of modern Nepal.
Tourism leader, businesswoman, philanthropist, and a tireless fighter for women’s rights, equitable entrepreneurship, and cultural conservation, Ambica showed us how to do it by creating Dwarika’s, one of the most celebrated heritage hotels in Asia.

Although soft-spoken, gracious, always quietly elegant, Ambica’s literacy, education and empowerment movements radically improved the status of women that we enjoy today. The benefits of her unyielding determination and implacable resolve will live with us for years to come.

Ambica’s 92-year lifetime spanned some of the nation’s most turbulent decades and dramatic changes. 

Nepal was hurtled into the modern era from its centuries of ‘medieval’ isolation under a succession of regimes who found it expedient to keep the borders tightly controlled. Few travellers, traders and pilgrims had penetrated into the towns, temples and rice terraces of the ‘emerald valley,’ mingling with the spectacularly skilled artists and artisans of the Malla Newar residents. 

Generations forged Kathmandu’s uniquely rich heritage, an enduring inheritance captured in the restoration and revival embodied in Dwarika’s premises and Ambica’s personal cultural crusade.

Transformations that she witnessed include the overthrow of Rana rule, the opening of Nepal to foreigners, the restoration and fall of the Shah monarchy, the trauma of the Royal massacre, the 10-year Maoist insurgency, and all the political turbulence that accompanied the making of the new Federal Democratic Republic of Nepal’s constitution. 

Born into a distinguished Newar family in the Himalayan kingdom of Sikkim, Ambica was the eldest daughter of Khadga Bahadur Pradhan and Padhma Kesari. She reminisced: ‘I had a comfortable upbringing. My favourite food was Kwati Ko Jhol Momo and I used to fight my seven brothers and sisters for the momos.’ Her parents were prosperous and enlightened, sending her to be educated in the elite British Indian convent of Loreto in Darjeeling. 

‘It was a sharp learning curve,’ she told me not long before her death, a twinkle in her eye. We were sitting in her habitual spot in the sunny hotel courtyard, the timbre of her distinctive voice still rings in my ears. There were less dogs at her feet than before – her beagle, alsation and labradors were aging too. Family members hovered, successive generations married far and wide but still kept close with many crucially involved in her multifarious activities. 

Ambica is survived by Sangita and Vinita, her two daughters and their families which total five grandchildren and five great-grandchildren, as well as extensive tentacles of Himalayan relatives. 

Ambica with her daughter Sangita Einhaus Shrestha and grandson Rene Vijay in 2021, the core team running Dwarika's Hotel. Photo: LISA CHOEGYAL

‘At school, myself and an Indian princess were the only brown faces amongst the sea of pale English and European girls at Loreto. We faced difficulties as the only non-Christians and had to do extra work studying the catechisms. Early on I recognised the need to exert myself and denounce the evils of discrimination, but of course I ended up really appreciating the education I received at that school.’ 

The easy laughter, compassionate and ever-gracious demeanour conceal Ambica’s steely passion for justice and her lifelong battle for the rights of women. Her abiding social activism credo can be defined by her advice to Nepali women: ‘There is no work that cannot be accomplished by women and every woman should be aware of that. All should know that if we can give birth to a child, we can also give birth to a new world. So every female should give education to their children and get educated themselves ... Women should help other women to develop confidence and move forward.’

Ambica studied in Patna University and taught in St Joseph’s convent in Kalimpong before moving to Kathmandu in 1955 to marry businessman Dwarika Das Shrestha. 

When foreign visitors started to trickle into the mysterious high Hindu kingdom in the early 1950s, the innovative and open-minded Dwarika foresaw the potential of tourism. He opened Kathmandu’s first hotel, the Paras Inn, in a family house at the top of New Road adopting the adage ‘guest is god’. 

The well-told story goes that Dwarika encountered exquisitely carved house struts and columns being chopped for kindling whilst out jogging, and was shocked into rescuing these treasures to preserve for future generations. He hastened to buy wood-carved windows and columns from any historic home that he heard was being dismantled to make way for modern concrete constructions.

A young widower, Dwarika fell deeply in love with the photograph of Ambica that arrived as a prospective bride. The eldest of ten children of a conservative Makhantole clan, Dwarika was attracted by her educated background as well as her looks. Ambica said: ‘I was given time to meet and talk to him before the marriage.’ 

With their liberated views, Ambica’s marriage to Dwarika was considered controversial by his orthodox Newar family who did not approve of educated ‘outsiders’. 

The Valley was a different world and Ambica remembered those early days: ‘Women were treated as enslaved people. My husband used to support me as he was against such systems. We were even ostracised for revolting against traditional family norms.’ 

Ambica recalls the time the family were lined up to admonish them on return from a spin around town on Dwarika’s new motorbike, furious because she had left the house without their permission. 

With Dwarika by her side, Ambica persisted in her subtle insurrections - such as wearing provocatively sleeveless clothes. Her excellent English language skills also set her apart.  ‘I think I was so bold because I had the opportunity to learn about different religions.’ 

Continuing her fight for rights, Ambica completed her Bachelor of Arts degree in Kathmandu, taught English at the Kanti Ishwori girl’s school in the late 1950s, ran language training at the British Council and programmes for the American Library. She volunteered in women’s groups and helped in Bir Hospital wards, stripping saris into bandages with her sewing group. In the 1960s ‘I was the first public affairs officer of the United States Information Service, at a salary of Rs.80 per month!’ In 1969 she became the first women president of the Nepal Jaycees youth movement of any country in the world.

Dwarika’s younger sister Bina Pradhan recalls: ‘It was a successful marriage of two extraordinary people, both ahead of their time. He gave her enormous freedom, and she was a tremendous asset to his clever business ideas. They worked as partners, hand-in-glove, together.’ 

Dwarika and Ambica had one son and two daughters, but tragedy struck when their boy was killed in a motorcycle accident near the tree that used to stand in the middle of Lazimpat. Stuck in an unusual jam in those days of very little road traffic, they walked forward to investigate the cause, only to realise the crash involved their own son Pawan Das Shrestha, aged 24 years. I never heard Ambica ever mention this personal catastrophe.

In 1964 Dwarika created a building in his garden, incorporating the many antique pieces he had collected, using authentic building methods and vernacular styles. I remember the 10-room wedge-brick guesthouse decorated with sculptures and handicrafts, with the fiercely efficient Swiss manager, Anne Marie Spaar and Hari Ram the cook housekeeper. 

Ambica’s growing family lived in a converted cow barn at the back of the current site. Officially registered in 1977 as a hotel, it was Sangita who suggested the name, Dwarika’s, to honour her father’s incomparable legacy of architectural preservation. 

Their travel agency Kathmandu and Travels opened in 1969 with offices in Basantapur, and was followed by Nepal Trek and Natural History Expeditions in 1970. As tourism grew, Dwarika and Ambica were perfectly placed to propel Nepal into the limelight as a high-quality cultural tourism destination. With her flair for promotion, Ambica was always helpful when we found ourselves together as the only women delegates marketing Nepal at international industry conferences – I was selling Tiger Tops, Mountain Travel and Tiger Mountain and our marketing alliance has lasted to this day.

After Dwarika’s death in 1992, of jaundice after a botched blood transfusion, Ambica was unafraid to develop his heritage hotel concept to its current splendour, and to expand Dwarika’s resort in Dhulikhel with Sangita. 

Although Nepal’s tourism industry has many women leaders today, Ambica had to diligently make her own path, performing her way in, patiently circumventing obstacles, breaking barriers, pioneering tangible ‘firsts’ such as negotiating bank loans for women. She said: ‘There is no shortcut to success, it is a long struggle to preserve our past for the future.’

Bringing a relentlessly international view to business and philanthropy in Nepal, Ambica embraced a global perspective and cosmopolitan candour that refused to be bounded by the confines of Nepal’s lingering historical tendencies towards xenophobia. Always a voracious reader, Ambica clearly saw the value of Nepal embracing the international community to ensure the highest standards of tourism and engage the most effective development expertise. She founded Transparency International Nepal.

Ambica and her family had sure instincts when it came to positioning Dwarika’s as the most desirable hotel in the Valley for discerning visitors, an architectural jewel that not only showcased superb examples of saved Malla Newar wood, stone and brick artistry, but kept the ancient skills alive by employing a cadre of craftsmen to supplement the woodcarvings and stonework, mould the dachhi-appa bricks and lay the jhingati tiled roofs. 

Stylish local handicrafts, wool carpets, artworks, dhaka cloth and hand weaving decorated the interiors, hailed as ‘the more beautiful hotel rooms in Asia.’ Every evening a starkly simple outdoor traditional music or dance performance entranced guests gathered for drinks. The Krishnapan restaurant was the first to serve Nepali cuisine reinvented and re-presented on handmade pottery with fresh organic ingredients from the farm, a must-visit dinner for royals and visiting VIPs. 

Dwarika’s became the perfect stage for Ambica to host leaders and celebrities, to hold meetings of her many not-for-profit organisations, to indulge her enthusiasm for art and literature, and to feature exhibitions, speakers, and memorial events for her departed friends. Amongst others we farewelled were Toni Hagen and Elizabeth Hawley beside the soothing gurgle of the hitis.

Lively book club discussions raged over lunch behind the pool, and many book launch events, including several of mine, took place in Dwarika’s courtyards thanks to Ambica’s generosity. ‘There is no room left on the shelves for books nor space on the walls to hang pictures,’ sighed Sangita, devotedly nursing her mother through a series of serious health crises, and careful to ration Ambica’s failing energy. Never was a daughter more dutiful. 

A keen reader all her life, Ambica was an active book club member with strong opinions on the fiction she enjoyed. At a dinner meeting in Kathmandu 2022.

Awards and recognition have been rained upon Ambica over the years for her work in tourism and philanthropy. Last month I handed her grandson, Dwarika’s manager Rene Vijay Shrestha, her final Rotary trophy which I had received on her behalf. Worn with worry during her final illness, he politely received the engraved glass plaque with his trademark irresistible smile: ‘Oh no, not another one! She has dozens of medals and awards!’ 

From HM King Birendra, Ambica received the prestigious Prakhyat Trishaktti Patta, Gorkha Dakshin Bahu 4th and Birendra – Aiswarya Sewa Padak medals, as well as awards from numerous Nepali tourism, heritage, women and business honours. And not only from Nepal. 

On a chilly afternoon in February 2024, I was amongst those gathered in Dwarika’s courtyard when the Spanish Ambassador from Delhi presented her with the handsome Royal Order of Isabella the Catholic for services to Spain, which she served as Honorary Consul since 1992. Previously HM King Juan Carlos I had granted her the Spanish Cross of the Order of Civil Merit.

Recognised with the highest Rotary International accolade in 2013, the Service Above Self Award, Ambica was an enthusiastic and committed Rotarian, the first woman president of any Rotary Club in Nepal and a charter member of Rotary Club of Kathmandu Mid-Town. For many years she chaired the Rotary District Advisory Council. 

But Rotary was only one of many glass ceilings that Ambica shattered. Often as the first woman she founded, led, chaired or was elected to boards of many of Nepal’s key tourism institutions: the Nepal Tourism Board, Nepal Airlines, Trekking Agencies’ Association of Nepal, Nepal Association of Travel Agents, Pacific and Asia Travel Association. 

In 1975 with her sister-in-law Bina Pradhan, she founded the Federation of Business Professional Women - Nepal, the platform for many of her pioneering partnerships and project achievements.

Both Ambica and I were founding members of the Nepal Heritage Society. I recall its 1983 start-up meeting presided by Prabarkar SJB Rana in a windowless office suite beneath the Soaltee Oberoi Hotel. 

Later meetings, with Ambica in the chair, were held at our society premises in the midst of Bhadrakali temple. With no parking restrictions, I would abandon my battered grey Mazda under a tree and navigate bell-ringing worshipers and beheaded goats to climb the precarious staircase to our low ceilinged meeting room. 

As chair of Himalmedia since the beginning, Ambica deftly juggled the conflicting pressures of journalism, tourism and public life. Her colleague Kanak Mani Dixit is an admirer: ‘She never objected to any piece of writing, she was never intimidated by events and Nepal suffered successive crises over the years. She staunchly supported even some of our more outspoken views in the interests of freedom of the press. There have been times in Nepal when media work has been risky or even outright dangerous. Ambica Didi’s unwavering conviction about right and wrong brought comfort to our team through some dark days.’ 

Despite her privileged background, Ambica was renowned for ‘walking the talk’. Seldom assertive, always ready to listen and generous with her encouragement of others, she passionately believed in her mantra of ‘leave no one behind’. 

On a post-earthquake Rotary project field trip to remote and badly damaged Nuwakot villages, we observed this firsthand. Ambica was visibly energised to see the directly positive effects of her coffee-growing initiative. Her visit disbursed hope. Perched on red plastic chairs, the courageous women farmers listened attentively as she quietly exhorted them to diversify and rebuild their lives.

Ambica was energised by helping women farmers in remote Nuwakot villages in 2019.

An inspiration for ageists, Ambica’s work ethic never flagged right up until the end, ensuring that her legacy will endure into the future. As founding advisor, alongside the indefatigable Bina Pradhan, she recently registered Business, Enterprise and Employment Services (BEES) for women in South Asia, with the aim of influencing regional policy for those still sidelined in the care economy.

It is a daunting task to summarise a life so well lived and so fearlessly dedicated to helping others. But the ocean of grief outpoured this week at her passing has testified to Ambica’s enormous reach, and the love and respect of those countless people whose lives have been touched by her special energy, kindness and commitment. 

Accolades have highlighted her tenacity, grace, sound judgement, and the pivotal role she played in thrusting Nepal into the realities of today’s world to make it a better place.

We can celebrate Ambica’s solid record of inspirational achievements in many spheres and on many levels. But without her presence, as a former American ambassador wrote: ‘Sadly, Kathmandu will never be quite the same.’

This story was first published in Nepali Times on 23 July 2024