Seto Machendranath, the white-faced Macchendranath is called Janabhaa Dyo in Newar language and the great chariot procession of this god of compassion is a Spring festival falling particularly near the Nepali New Year's Day.

The Seto Machendranath known to Buddhists as Arya Avalokiteshwar or Karunamaya resides in the Jana Bahal temple located halfway between Indrachok and Ason chowk, the bustling part of town in Kathmandu.

The Chariot Festival of Seto Machendranath takes place over a week, every day late afternoon through a prescribed route since its inception. For the year 2081 BS (2024) the route is as following.

• Day 1 Seto Macchendranath is carried on a palanquin from His house at Jana Bahal to Teen Dhara (Durbar Marg) to mount His 32-foot tall Chariot. The Chariot then passes through Jamal, Bhotahitiy, and Ason.
• Day 2 Starts at Ason and passes through Balkumari, Kel Tol, Indrachok, Makhan to Hanuman Dhoka and is parked next to Kaal Bhairabh Statue.
• Day 3 Starts at Hanuman Dhoka and pass through Chikanmuga, Jaisidewal, and Jyadhawal Dha: ending at Lagan.
• Day 4 Stays at Lagan after circumambulating Aama Rukh.
• Day 5 Starts at Lagan and passes through Jyadhawal Dha:, Yutunini, Kwohiti, Bhimsenthan, Maru, Yatkha:, Naradevi, Kilagal, Bheda Singh, Keltol, ending at Jana Bahal. That culminates the Seto Macchhendranath Yatra for the year.

The origin of Seto Macchendranath

Legend has it that King Jayakshya Malla, often called Yaksha Malla, reigning between 1428 - 1482 is responsible for the festival's origin in his Kingdom of Kantipur (now Kathmandu). Kantipur (Kanti means light, and pur means city) was a divine place during his reign. Kantipur residents would bathe at Rani Pokhara, the Queen's pond, and walk to Swayambhu Maha Chaitya and such divinity led them to heaven upon death.

Hearing this Yamaraj, the Hindu God of Death visited the area to pay respect. Learning about the visit King Yaksha captured the God with the help of his royal guru. The king refused to let Yamaraj go He granted Yaksha with the boon of immortality. Yamaraj then prayed to Arya Avalokiteshwor for help. Lord appeared over water With a white face, body, and half-closed eyes.

The benevolent God stated, "Whoever builds me a temple where the Bagmati and Kalmati rivers met would live long and be prosperous". Further, he commanded the king to start a three-day Rath yatra, a chariot festival, during which Seto Macchendranath would make a procession through old Kathmandu town so that he could visit the ailing who are unable to move and could also be blessed with happiness and long life.

To this day the Janabhaa Dyo starts near Rani Pokhari and visits the immediate neighborhoods including the main temple of Jana Bahal.

Picture Story of Seto Macchendranath

All photos by Nikki Thapa